Monday, 4 May 2015

Call my bluff...

Mount Barker, a small country town, was to be our base for a couple of nights. Located in farming country and with a few wineries its main attraction was its close proximity to the Stirling Range National Park, which was to be the focus of our visit to this area.

Robyn and Vince welcomed us to our accommodation a small chalet in the grounds of their B&B. They also offered 'glamping' in Mongolian yurts. We were not the only temporary guests. Robyn and Vince care for orphaned kangaroos prior to releasing them back into the wild. At the time of our stay they were caring for Angel, Ruby (the baby), Jumper and Chocolate. Within half an hour of our arrival Mrs B. was cuddling Ruby and helping to feed the two boys with milk from a bottle. 



As well as the kangaroos there were chickens, a dog and two merino sheep...so quite a menagerie. Kookaburras nested in the trees.



Despite being tempted to spend the next day in the company of the 'roos we planned to spend our time exploring and this meant opening the gate in the morning without letting them all escape. Fortuitously Angel hopped into our chalet and investigated our kitchen and bedroom which gave me time to open the gate and drive the car outside without releasing the menagerie.


A Kangaroo in the kitchen!
Mrs B. and Angel looking out of our bedroom window



Much of our journey so far had taken us through coastal or forest landscapes but from Mount Barker we were able to see mountains for the first time. The Stirling Range has several summits over 1000 meters in height and I hoped to climb the highest, Bluff Knoll at 1099 meters. It was about an hours drive to the Stirling Range National Park and Bluff Knoll came into sight as we got closer. Driving in Australia has a few hazards. Native wildlife is prone to jump out in front of cars much as pheasants do in England. The problem however in Australia is that its not pheasants that you have to look out for but kangaroos and emus! Warning signs remind you of the hazards.




As we started to approach Bluff Knoll on the access road a small kangaroo shot out in front of us. Fortunately I wasn't driving too fast and had time to brake and take evasive action.

Bluff Knoll is a craqgy mountain, often covered in cloud (and very occasionally snow) and from the car park it looked a steep climb. After days of hot sunshine we'd entered a period of cooler weather and the mountain was covered in mist - living up to its reputation. Local aboriginal people believe this mist to be a spirit named Noatch and the mountain is associated with death in aboriginal story telling. I had conveniently neglected to share this information with Mrs B!

First view of Bluff Knoll, the top shrouded in mist.
We started the climb and soon began a steep ascent. The path was rocky but well marked passing initially through native bush before climbing steadily to offer views of the other peaks of the Stirling Range. Mrs B got to just over halfway up and we agreed I'd carry on to the summit as this wasn't the type of walking she was used to....

Approaching half way....
After another 45 minutes or so I arrived at the summit, a small area of boulders and low growing lichen covered plants at the edge of a precipice. Fortunately the cloud cover had lifted and the views of the other peaks and the plains stretching out to the coast were impressive. 




Altogether it took me about 3 hours and 25 minutes to get up to the top and return to the car park - where, to my relief, Mrs B was waiting for me as it was a long walk back to anywhere! We returned to Nomads to spend a bit more time with the kangaroos before planning a route for the next leg of our journey.

In the morning it was time to say our goodbyes once more (and check Mrs B.'s rucksack to make sure she hadn't smuggled a kangaroo into it). We made a stop for coffee at the Mount Barker Country Bakery before leaving and bought two of their waygu beef pies for later consumption...they had won an award for the best gourmet pie in Australia in 2014. 

A 300 mile journey lay ahead of us to the town of Esperance on the Southern Coast so with our caffeine levels topped up and the petrol in the car replenished we set off on a long, long drive.



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